Paris Fashion Week: the modern age

PUBLISHED : Monday, 01 October, 2012, 9:02am
UPDATED : Tuesday, 16 October, 2012, 3:33pm

Givenchy was set to start at 8pm. Despite our efforts, Riccardo Tisci was apparently not taking any interviews post show this season. The offering for Spring was, however, worth the wait, especially for those, like me, who had been attending shows since the morning. Edgy as always, it was a collection that showed Tisci's special talent for setting off new trends that other labels follow in coming seasons.

I must admit a soft spot for Ennio Capasa's aesthetic - a clean, non-fusion blend of Western modernist cool with some rather Japanese elements, learnt from his time in Tokyo. He told me in his last visit to Hong Kong that he felt a recent invigoration of inspiration and ideas in the last few years. It seems that this is still the case for his Costume National SS13 collection. As crisp and clean as you might expect from Capasa, but also full of fresh ideas and zest.
Kanye West's appearance at the Celine show caused a kerfuffle outside. After last season's unexpected change from a show to a very private presentation (with a tiny guest list), editors were relieved to be back in a larger venue. Grand chandeliers and gilt cornicing was a slightly ironic, yet beautiful, backdrop for Phoebe Philo's work. It was a softer, more flattering take on her minimalist ideals and a great development of the Celine look. All eyes were on the crazy flat sandals covered with coloured fluffy fur - set to be one of those ridiculous yet cool fashionista favourites soon.

Hermes lightened things up with exceptionally delightful prints and colours. There was still the travelling, nomadic theme referenced, but this season Creative Director Christophe Lemaire made the collection much more accessible, updated, fresh and fun. Easy, breezy and very well made overall. The new oversized travel handbag is also an absolute treat and workable for both men and women. 



Celine SS13. Photos: Jing Zhang



Costume National SS13. Photos: Jing Zhang