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From the runway: Maison Martin Margiela, Kenzo, Celine
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Maison Martin Margiela
This uber-cool fashion label is forgoing the minimalism of last season for a tougher and more energetic look. Subverted tailoring with bold pinstripes, bright jolts of colour and words printed along dresses and satin sashes - this is as playful as we've seen the Margiela collection for a while.
Another triumph for Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, the Asian American creative duo at the helm of Kenzo. Inspired by ancient Indian temples, this was nevertheless a cheerful collection, painfully hip and full of youthful freedom - a sentiment that this new incarnation of the brand seems to have nailed down. I had a great one-on-two interview with the friendly pair backstage after their show - read about it soon in print in the South China Morning Post.
A crowd of television cameras were lining up for some face time with the creative directors, and even a special appearance guest interviewer came in the form of Chinese supermodel Ming Xi.
More of everything this time around by Phoebe Philo of Celine. This autumn winter show revealed less of the stark severe minimalism we've come to know and love in the past few season and more of a feminine sense of experimentation. Perhaps it was time for a bit of a change.
A cheeky plastic courier bag check print, gentle pastels and lots of wide cut, oversized coats made for a highly covetable collection.