Opinion | Pick a side: Milan menswear moves out of the grey for spring/summer

It’s time to pick a side, boys – no more playing it safe in the “classic but cool” grey area. The way the Milan spring/summer menswear shows are going, you’re either joining the low-key, muted crew or the flock of brightly coloured, boldly patterned peacocks who are all about turning heads. 

In one corner: the minimalist men. Ermenegildo Zegna, Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, Marni and Bottega Veneta sent hollow-cheeked hunks down the catwalk clad in simple, chic designs. Ex-YSL Stefano Pilati brought an elegance to Zegna’s collection – the beautifully tailored clothes were as subtle as they were sophisticated, and the deconstructed suits made for a lighter, more youthful look.

Barrett went California dreaming with a laidback, Eames-inspired collection; Sander kept things simple but with occasional accents of “fluorescent fuchsia”. Marni and Bottega Veneta went for a quiet and office-appropriate look but with playful touches such as dotted prints and painted-on pockets.

Then in the other corner: the fun and fabulous. Versace certainly doesn’t disappoint, with a blinding collection of highlighter hues and animal prints, not to mention a throwback to the Beijing Olympics with prints and tattoos inspired by neon sports tape. Salvatore Ferragamo kept the sporty vibe going with a fun, athletic collection featuring splashes of orange and oversized numbers.

Calvin Klein, meanwhile, was feeling a tad blue – shades ranging from cornflower to midnight coloured the collection. Emporio Armani also went for a playful palette, incorporating fresh aqua hues and navy tones in its designs. Then Prada and Dolce & Gabbana went globe-trotting. Prada headed for tropical climes with palm and Hawaiian prints – albeit with a slightly darker edge.