Diners driving shark fin decline

There was a time when shark's fin soup was invariably the highlight of a Chinese-style banquet. As soon as guests were seated around the dining table, they skimmed through the menu in a subtle manner to see what would be served. The more exquisite the grade of the shark fin, the greater the sense of delight. Nowadays, a casual menu check is still a customary practice. But the response may range from delight to dismay, depending on whether the dish is off the menu or not.

The change in attitude speaks volume of the conflicts between growing conservation awareness and culinary habits. Increasingly, more hosts have come to realise that the banquet is equally fine without serving the dish. Guests have also learned to appreciate that they are not being ill-treated by their eco-friendly hosts. Caterers are also happy to provide alternatives for eco-minded customers.

The positive trend is also reflected in numbers. According to a survey on local caterers by WWF Hong Kong, the volume of shark fin consumed last year dropped 47 per cent. This is in line with a decline in imports, down from 8,285 tonnes to 5,412 tonnes - a decrease of 34.7 per cent.

It may well be the case that China's crackdown on extravagance has given the endangered marine predator some respite. But the trend also owes much to a concerted effort from those involved in the chain, which includes airlines, traders and caterers. They each make a difference by acting responsibly, such as imposing a cargo ban on the product, scaling down imports and taking it off the menu.

But nothing is more effective than a consumers' boycott. As the survey found, conventional Chinese restaurants still keep shark fin on the menu on the assumption that many customers may still adhere to the culinary tradition; and that they would lose out if they cannot match what their rivals provide.

When there is demand, there is supply. By saying no unequivocally to the dish, customers can help reduce supply, which hopefully, can stop the killing.