Stefano Pilati, the designer who departed last season after a decade at the helm of Yves Saint Laurent, has signed on to Italian suiting powerhouse, Ermenegildo Zegna. Zegna Group announced last week the designer would oversee all menswear and the group's womenswear label, Agnona, from January.
Two years ago in Milan I spoke to CEO Gildo Zegna, part of the fourth generation of the family to run the business since its inception in 1910. He stressed that the company didn't have a celebrity designer as a creative core. However, the Zegna Group is not entirely against the idea. The talented Allesandro Sartori, who headed up the more casual Z Zegna range, built a name for himself in his eight years at Zegna, before leaving to head Italian shoemaker Berluti's first ready-to-wear range for men in 2011. Sartori has since been recognised as a powerful force with his critically acclaimed Berluti debut - an intelligent take on ready-to-wear for the 100-year-old footwear brand. Zegna must have taken note.
Pilati is quite a coup for the label. At YSL, he saw the label through tough economic times and took the company into the black after years of financial losses. He made great steps into new markets and generated positive editorial coverage, as well as ramping up YSL's profitable accessories lines. Pilati will likely bring some daring Parisian chic and attitude to the house that has built its name on precise suiting and beautiful, innovative fabrics. With his appointment, Zegna is taking further strides into the fashion world. With little-known womenswear brand Agnona on the line too, I'm looking forward to seeing what the new star designer has to offer.