Shanghai-based fashion designer Helen Lee forges contemporary path

Entering through a sun-dappled courtyard, we climb the stairs in a three-storey colonial-style wooden house on Fumin Lu, a quiet, tree-lined street in Shanghai. On the top floor, colourful, contemporary outfits hang on racks in a carefully curated space mixing vintage Chinese furniture with black and white photography and colourful woven stools.

Dressed in a striped blue and white Breton shirt (a design from her most recent collaboration with French brand Saint James), with her black hair pulled back neatly, Shanghainese designer Helen Lee is showing us the hip headquarters, showroom and atelier of her eponymous designer label as well as her street wear brand Insh.

As the most cosmopolitan of Chinese cities, Shanghai's style scene has changed much in recent years. There are more creative start-ups, while gleaming malls stuffed with luxury brands have become commonplace. Instead of just logos and bling, it's the lower key designs of Céline, Ports 1961 or Valentino that are building a following.

"When I started my Insh label in 2003, 99 per cent of customers were international," Lee says. "Maybe it's because my style, designs and presentation were very international. It was something new for locals, even though we used some Chinese elements … [especially] Chinese concept and attitude. But locals didn't have the confidence to try it back then."

Today, much has changed. In the past four years, fashion mix and match has become popular among the young and trendy in Shanghai, who are very much exposed to American and European styles. The internet and smartphones have radically changed fashion consumption, allowing anyone from around the world to discover new looks.