Five things to know about a fantastical Alexander McQueen collection
From homely and comfy shawls to leather corsets and embroidered jackets, Sarah Burton’s show at Paris Fashion Week had it all
1.The natural coastal landscapes and crafts of the Shetland Isles were the inspiration for Sarah Burton’s collection at Alexander McQueen. How fitting that she looked towards the artisanal skills passed down through generations of women, such as gossamer fine Shetland lace, and wove in motifs of indigenous flora and fauna.
2. It all started off all rather homely with snuggled patchwork knits, panelled knit dresses, shawls and Celtic paisley – this wasn’t our favourite part of the collection but bold Celtic checks brought in a cool masculinity.
3. Soon came the leather bracelets, corset bodices and perfectly tailored leather jackets (loving the zipped detachable peplums) embroidered with shipwreck scenes, many worn over delicate lace dresses or voluminous lightweight cotton gowns, often with a puffed, antique shoulder.
4. Despite lots of softer fabrics that skimmed the body, many of the looks were visually bold and graphic, because of contrasting materials such as leather, cotton, knit, lace and then that bold, colour-contrasted embroidering.
5. Towards the end, things got really interesting as the collection transformed into a luxurious, glittering cumulation of tulle evening gowns dripping in silver sequins and beading towards the ends of long skirts – all made to evoke sea foam and crashing waves engulfed by ocean. Jaw-dropping.
