In rare interview, John Galliano explains how Maison Margiela helps him be freer and more calm

Since John Galliano joined Maison Margiela in Paris in late 2014, there have been no live interviews, no post-show comments about the collection, not even a catwalk bow. He has been a completely enigmatic presence – a contrast to the flamboyant person who took his bow at the end of the Christian Dior and his own runways shows, prior to his very public breakdown in 2011, which led to his dismissal from Dior.

He did, however, turn up on stage at The Business of Fashion’s Voices conference in Oxfordshire, England to give a rare interview.

Galliano was there to discuss the creative process behind his ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections. His focus is on Artisanal (the couture-like collection presented during the haute couture shows) and the “undiluted creativity” poured into that collection provides the “essence” of the brand, from which the ready-to-wear and accessory lines are derived.

He talked about his “openness” and sense of creative freedom that he now feels, and made constant references to his design team, which the 56-year-old designer calls “his kids” – while his muses are “Instagram babes”.

Galliano has admitted that, prior to leaving Dior, he didn’t know how to write emails or use a mobile because everything was done for him. But through this small, tight-knit team he has discovered Snapchat, Instagram, emojis and a young fresh way of thinking.

As an example, he had been questioning his boredom with the traditional composition of embroidery and found himself talking with Paulina, one of his “Instagram babes”, about her predilection for tattoos and he said it suddenly clicked – tattoo embroideries. Similarly, after a long hiatus he is revisiting his signature bias-cutting that created the evocative, silk and lace 1930s-style gowns for which he is famed.