Hong Kong designer Narcisa Pheres introduces leading Japanese jeweller to the world

Hong Kong-based designer Narcisa Pheres made headlines when Michelle Obama wore one of her diamond rings at the US president’s farewell address. Pheres is known for making luxury clothing for men, she has been creating pieces under her own name since 2012. Now she’s the first creative director for one of Japan’s oldest jewellery houses, Jewelry Maki.

“Maki found me through one of the many trunk shows I host in Japan. I didn’t know much about them except that in the 1990s they were one of the biggest jewellery companies in Japan with more than 2,000 stores,” says Pheres. “At one point they were buying about 30 per cent of De Beers’ diamond production. The company has 50 years of heritage but its business is mainly domestic. My job is to make the brand global by adding my modern touch.”

Her debut collection Aristeia, in stores and showrooms next month including Pheres in Hong Kong, departs from what she describes as Maki’s “kawaii” [cute] designs. Her inspiration came from the Zen temple gardens of Kyoto and the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection. The result is a collection of modern-meets-vintage jewels made from mostly baguette diamonds – from statement earrings that curve around the ears to delicate bangles and rings.

“My favourite piece is the unisex Alcina bangle which has a rough unfinished look thanks to a mix of baguette and round diamonds set in dull gold. It embodies the concept of the collection because the unmatched textures make it unique and beautiful,” she says.

Although her collaboration with Jewelry Maki is new, Pheres’ passion for jewellery precedes her career in fashion design. A Gemological Institute of America certified diamond expert and jewellery designer, she began dealing with vintage jewellery in her 20s when she was living in Tokyo. In 2000, after being asked by clients, she began creating one-of-a-kind jewels for collectors.