Weird and wacky Galliano collection for Maison Margiela a reminder of why his Paris shows are a must-see
Bags repurposed as headgear were just one of the eccentric features of British designer’s show for French fashion house; Dries Van Noten goes back to the past in a celebration of womanhood
Maison Margiela under John Galliano has become a must-see at Paris Fashion Week, and once again, his collection did not disappoint. Taking a similar approach to that for the French fashion house’s spring/summer 2017 artisanal collection, Galliano used décortiqué and splicing to produce bold deconstructed silhouettes for autumn-winter 2017.
The results were eccentric, to say the least. Tufting, embellishments and embroideries made highly tailored garments look sumptuous. Accessories such as hairy or fringed leather bags were repurposed into headpieces that made an edgy statement on the catwalk. Needless to say, this was a clear It-bag alert.
Dries Van Noten celebrated his 100th catwalk show with an anniversary collection worthy of the standing ovation it received. The Belgian master revisited favourite patterns from the past 20 years (though this was far from a copy-and-paste collection) – including his signature painterly prints, from bold geometrics to romantic florals and abstract-art-inspired motifs.
It is a collection that celebrates womanhood, and the show provided the most powerful moment so far this week in Paris.