With Robert De Niro on board, Ermenegildo Zegna looks to the future with new artistic director

Alessandro Sartori, Ermenegildo Zegna’s new artistic director, is showing us around the label’s fabric mills in Trivero, northern Italy, where we see a beautiful fine navy wool fabric being created live for Robert De Niro, Zegna’s new campaign figure. His name is woven into the end of the fabric roll.

“Today is the moment to unite the style of the house in one consistent message. Starting from the collection and design, it was really important to recreate a strong Zegna statement,” says Sartori.

We’re talking at the brand’s newly opened bespoke atelier in the centre of Milan – a stylish apartment space kitted out with chic Italian designer furniture. It will be headquarters for the new service. A team led by a master tailor consults, measures and fits Zegna’s wealthy couture clients in one-of-a-kind bespoke outfits. A suit here requires 200 steps of custom tailoring, during which 150 pieces are assembled by hand over at least 75 working hours.

“We want to keep it personal, this beautiful Milanese apartment,” he adds, waving an arm at the lush surroundings, “incorporating Milanese style in watercolours, objects from Italian designers, tonal greys and brass, and antique wood and herringbone design on all the furniture. This is for one-to-one appointments that might last one to three hours; this is where we show our vast selection of styles and fabrics.

“Customers can also order direct from the catwalk looks, and there is the possibility to make unique fabrics for one person. It should be a soulful process.” Zegna’s vertically integrated business – the company owns everything from merino wool sheep farms in Australia to fabric mills, retail stores and this atelier – makes it possible to create one-of-a-kind fabrics for clients.