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Why China led the ‘Great Retail Apocalypse of 2017’ and how fashion labels are reinventing themselves

This year has seen a halt in the growth of bricks-and-mortar fashion stores in China, leading to major strategy changes among the industry’s leaders. We look at how integrating online and offline services helps retailers grab market share

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A Prada store in Beijing. Luxury brands have rushed to open stores in China. Photo: EPA

The “Great Retail Apocalypse of 2017” is a term that sends anxiety levels soaring across the international fashion industry. And while it may sound theatrical, this phrase has been coined to reflect a very real problem – and one that originated in China.

This is the first year in history that has seen more luxury store closures than openings around the world, bringing a sudden halt to the relentless expansion of European and American brands.

It was China that caused the initial flurry of bricks-and-mortar builds, and a decade down the line, it was also China that precipitated the current crisis.

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When European retailers first opened their eyes to the business potential in China in the 2000s, a plethora of glitzy boutiques catering to newly minted millionaires started springing up around the country.

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This quickly turned into a feeding frenzy, with the pace of openings becoming somewhat frantic over the last decade – by 2014, 10 of the world’s top luxury brands had built 1,320 stores in China in just four years. The thinking was, a glossy luxury boutique in every first and second tier city in China would make up for stagnating growth in the West.

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