Five dressmakers keeping alive the qipao, or cheongsam, in Hong Kong by adding modern twists to the traditional Chinese dress
Need a qipao for Chinese New Year? They are harder to find in Hong Kong these days with the retirement of many old Shanghai tailors, but younger dressmakers still offer them – and with modern cuts, fabrics and designs
A cheongsam, also known as a qipao, is a traditional Chinese dress often worn during Lunar New Year celebrations as well as on other special occasions.
The cheongsam, from swinging Shanghai to Suzie Wong to slit thigh-high
However, as the old generation of Shanghainese tailors in Hong Kong retires, finding a high-quality cheongsam in Hong Kong is increasingly difficult. We found five places where you can still buy one or have one made.
Keita Maruyama Eastern elements such as Chinese motifs, floral and dragon embroidery have always been a part of Keita Maruyama’s brand aesthetic. But the Japanese designer – who has created ready-to-wear, uniforms for Japanese airlines and Hong Kong high schools, and kimonos – takes this further with the capsule collection of qipaos in his In the Mood for Love range.
“Qipaos can be difficult to wear because of how they emphasise the curves of a woman. I want to make them more comfortable, yet still stylish, so they can be daily wear. That’s why my designs are a bit more loose-fitting,” says Maruyama, via a translator.
While the collection is named after Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai’s acclaimed film, in which actress Maggie Cheung Man-yuk wore more than 20 different qipaos, Maruyama has included other pop-culture references, such as to Chinese-born Japanese actress Yoshiko Yamaguchi, who was often seen wearing cheongsams.