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LifestyleFashion & Beauty

Haute couture week in Paris sees the rich and famous make an appearance

The rich and famous turned out in force in Paris to worship at fashion's high altar, writes Jing Zhang

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Maison Martin Margiela
Jing Zhang

The first half of couture week in Paris got off to a positive start, showing that these hallowed high fashion ateliers can still be relevant today. It was a line-up where couture powerhouses flexed their muscles in a serious way, showing off a modern approach to a traditional industry. And elegant, rather glamorous muscles they were. Giambattista Valli, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Raf Simons at Christian Dior, Donatella Versace for Atelier Versace and Marco Zanini for Schiaparelli showed impressive designs in gilded venues dotted around Paris.

More conceptual and playful designs and runways emerged in the second half of the week, as if to raise spirits dampened by the dreary, unpredictable weather that invaded the city.

Elie Saab
Elie Saab
Couture clients and celebrities clad in big-ticket outfits stepped through the rain and made their way over slippery cobblestones into show venues. The likes of Valentino, Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier and Viktor & Rolf do their best to impress the fashion world's wealthiest clients, with no-expense-spared showmanship.
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Amsterdam-based duo Viktor & Rolf seem to be getting their mojo back for autumn-winter 2015 with a strong collection in crimson; oversized bows adorning shoulders and hips, producing bold shapes using a simple, yet strong concept - taking red carpet dressing quite literally.

A morning show by Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal Couture line was one of our early favourites. Always offering up the unexpected, the Margiela studios, now owned by Italian fashion mogul Renzo Rosso, lit up the runway with a spectacular collection that focused on collecting and recasting used and new objects and clothing in fresh ways. The ultimate exercise in upcycling occurred here with eccentric pieces collected into archives, sewn in their atelier for unique and entirely handmade works of art.

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There was a surrealist thread here, with a huge red and orange embroidered lobster dress, then a cool blue version, that would have left Lady Gaga quivering at the knees (the show notes reveal that the tops took about 90 hours each to make).

The oversized 3-D embroideries encrusted with glass beads, crystals and stones were superb features on sleek bustiers and wispy chiffon skirts. An "I Love You" heart-shaped crystal encrusted bustier and embroidery patchwork skirt instantly became a fashion editor favourite.

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