By Malene Birger is the latest Scandinavian fashion house to open
The contemporary fashion market has been dominated by American designers for years. But that is slowly changing, thanks to some serious competition from the industry's latest hotspot: Scandinavia.
While the region has always been on the style radar due to its hip street style and must-read blogs, it's only recently that labels such as Acne and COS have started to make waves in Asia. The latest arrival is By Malene Birger, which opened its first flagship store in Hong Kong on September 19.
The brand may be new to Southeast Asia, but it already boasts a cult following in its native Denmark, thanks to its subtle yet sophisticated silhouettes and edgy details.
By Malene Birger was launched over 10 years ago by the country's fashion queen, award-winning designer Malene Birger, who also co-founded popular label Day Birger et Mikkelson.
What started out as a small label featuring stylish wardrobe essentials with a boho twist, is now a fully fledged fashion empire that includes bags, shoes and travel accessories.
The historic 1860s building may reference the city's past, but its interiors are sleek and modern; staffers enjoy perks that include an in-house chef, free yoga classes, and dry cleaning.
Even the restrooms come with their own branded toilet paper featuring the label's chic black-and-white logo. Building an empire like this takes plenty of hard work and no one knows this better than creative director Christina Exsteen.
Exsteen has been working alongside Birger since she founded the company, helping build the brand's aesthetic from scratch.
When Birger left her namesake company earlier this year, Exsteen was handed the creative reins, which she says was both daunting and exciting.
"I always knew this day would come. It's a process that's been happening gradually over the past 2½ years, although it was only made official earlier this year. I am very proud of the company and the DNA which I helped build.
"Our strength is an attention to detail, and the stories we tell with clothes. That's what I want to keep going," she says.
Although intent on respecting the brand's past, Exsteen's vision was to move it firmly into the future.
Her first collection, for autumn-winter 2014, revisited plenty of the brand's signatures, including the strong graphics and masculine tailoring and vintage references. But her recent spring-summer 2015 showing charts a new path.
"I felt we need to play a bit more with contrast. We have beautiful products with quality, but we needed to add an edge. It's no longer just about creating something that's polished or neat. Things become more interesting when they have a contrast," she says.
So even though the collection boasts clean lines and plenty of sharp tailoring, it's the bold details that take centre stage. Fluid dresses and tops are embellished with handmade tassels inspired by ethnic cultures, while rich textured fabrics and chunky knits look like they've been transposed from native American blankets and tepees. Elegant dresses and skirts feature reworked pleats and gathers on the back.
"A lot of our past collections were about ethnic cultures, so we did it again. But we twisted it and made it edgier, younger and livelier. The By Malene Birger woman is confident - she likes being stylish, but it doesn't have to be complicated. She has a fluid lifestyle, so she wants clothes that make a statement, but are still effortless.
"I think a lot about our point of difference, because there is so much out there. Our strength is this idea of quality luxury. There is workmanship in every piece. At the same time, there is a little signature. I like telling stories inside the clothes by inserting small details for the women who buy them," she says.
So classic pieces such as a cream blazer are updated with a softly draped yoke on the front for a feminine look, while pockets are inserted at an angle for a sleeker silhouette. Even simple elements such as flat lock stitches on a pair of trousers are transformed into a design motif.
"The new details make you want to add it to your wardrobe. Just because a piece is classic doesn't mean you can't update it," Exsteen says.
Spring also sees her play with more statement jewels in the form of chunky gold chokers, body chains and necklaces that bring to mind breast plates. It may be new territory for the brand (the first collection was launched for autumn-winter 2015) but she hopes to expand the offerings each season.
Exsteen is confident the brand's aesthetic will resonate with audiences worldwide, especially in Hong Kong.
"Many people ask me what's appealing about Scandinavian style, and I think it's because we have a way of making what's fashionable look wearable.
"When I first started, we only had a few fashion brands, and now we have built a fashion culture that is respected around the world. It's quite an achievement, and I hope we continue to be a part of that."