Laurence Xu's part in Paris couture week shows Chinese designer's global vision

It's been 18 months since Laurence Xu made his impressive debut in Paris at the haute couture collections in July 2013 with his exquisitely embroidered cocktail dresses and jumpsuits, the colourful summation of thousands of hours of delicate handwork at his atelier in Beijing.

Last week he returned to the Paris catwalk with his second presentation of hand-painted and vividly embroidered cocktail dresses and gowns inspired by the extraordinary Buddhist frescoes that decorate the caves in the Dunhuang region of northern China. Xu might find international admirers but when it comes to clientele his classicism and unfaltering Chinese aesthetic can be limiting.

Xu is an ambassador of Chinese traditions: embroidery and brocades are part of his design DNA and he has invested in a large studio of artisans to keep these traditional skills alive. Nevertheless, it can still take 10 months or more to embroider this richly picturesque collection of 20 or so gowns. It's an investment of passion and dedication resulting in exceptional pieces such as in a jumpsuit covered in a fine filigree of gunmetal and gold beading and a gown with a laser-cut leather bodice embellished with embroidered rosettes.

You could draw some comparison with the way Chanel has supported the Métier d'Arts in France investing in Lesage (embroidery), Lemarié (flowers and feathers), Maison Michel (hats) and so forth for its haute couture and pre-autumn collections, but such is the financial power of Chanel and the size of their ateliers, Lagerfeld can produce a collection in a mere six weeks.