Hong Kong restaurant reviews

Restaurant review: Bisque – Lobster + Champagne: shellfish beautifully presented

Small and intimate Lan Kwai Fong eatery offers three of life's decadent pleasures. Two are in the name. The third? To-die-for foie gras

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 10 September, 2015, 2:31pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 10 September, 2015, 2:31pm

It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that a place called Bisque – Lobster + Champagne is going to be serving bisque, lobster and champagne. The intimate space has just four small round tables (each with a built-in champagne bucket) plus seats at the counter in front of the open kitchen.

The kitchen is small and the chef, working with a couple of helpers, prepares the dishes one-by-one, so don’t come here if you’re in a rush.

Pan-seared fresh French foie gras (HK$288) was delicious and beautifully presented. Well-seared but very soft and runny inside, the thick piece of foie gras was served on toast to help absorb the juices, before being drizzled with a rose petal-scented sauce and accompanied with tart pear chutney that helped to cut through the richness of the liver. The long black plate was decorated with rose petals, parsley leaves and delicate pea shoots.

We had a hard time deciding between the lobster sliders and New England lobster roll; the waiter explained that the sliders were warm, while the roll was cold. We went for the lobster roll (HK$320), which turned out to be two generous sandwiches served with a bowl of Terra vegetable crisps and a salad with a over-acidic dressing. House-made mayonnaise was thin enough to very lightly coat the chunks of fresh, sweet lobster meat. The bread roll was too large, so we ended up peeling off the exterior of the roll.

 Whole New Brunswick lobster is offered with three styles of preparation. We could easily make the “classic” steamed with melted butter and grilled with herbs and garlic butter at home, so we ordered the “typhoon-style” version with chilli, salted black beans and crisp garlic (HK$758). It could have done with fewer black beans, but the dish was hearty and pungent, and would have gone really well with a bowl of rice.

Bisque –Lobster + Champagne, 1/F, 1 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, tel: 2331 8181. About HK$680 without drinks or the service charge