Restaurant Review

Newly opened: Osteria Felice a friendly Italian restaurant in Central

Good selection of Italian dishes, although some could use a little more flavour

PUBLISHED : Friday, 06 November, 2015, 1:29pm
UPDATED : Saturday, 16 January, 2016, 10:26pm

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Il Milione in Hutchison House, Central, which closed a few months ago, has been replaced by another Italian restaurant, Osteria Felice (tel: 2516 6166), which is operated by the Epicurean Group.

Much of the furniture has remained, along with the open kitchen in the back, although the previously lavish décor has been toned down.

The menu lists a large selection of antipasti, cheese, salumi and pizza. We visited on the second day after opening and the staff were friendly and quite helpful, answering questions about the menu.

 The grilled octopus (HK$165) was impressively tender, although some pieces were on the salty side. Served with spiced potato salad, it was an enjoyable dish  but the bits of celery were unnecessary.

&Free-range egg and soft polenta mixed with pecorino and freshly shaved black truffle (HK$108) was a hearty dish with an earthy fragrance.

Buffalo mozzarella with lardo (HK$168) was an unusual combination. Although the lardo was flavourful, it wasn’t enough to balance the blandness of the soft cheese. The fresh green peas and mint were welcome garnishes, adding taste and texture.

The pizzas here have thin crusts and  thick, soft edges. We chose the marinara (HK$158), which, as the menu points out, has no cheese. We enjoyed every bite of the pizza, which was covered in pungent anchovies, olives, capers and tomatoes.

Our other main course was the savoury oxtail ravioli in beef consommé and black truffle (HK$178). The ravioli was flat tasting, and needed more herbs and spices, as well as other ingredients for texture.

To finish, the lemon tart (HK$78) was a little too sweet, but the accompanying shot glass of blood orange granita was refreshing.

Osteria Felice
Shop 16-21, G/F, Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Road, Central