Restaurant review: Mercedes me, Central – multinational cuisine with high-end branding
A luxury automobile company opening a restaurant may appear pretentious, but the food, inspired by cuisines from Spain, Japan and Latin America, is unique and delicious
We booked late so had to sit at the bar in front of the open kitchen. The menu is divided into sections that included small plates of raw, cold and hot dishes, while the main courses are in the grill section. Our meal was served at a good, unrushed pace.
The other small dishes were a vast improvement. Sea urchin with fig, nori cracker, oyster leaf and ponzu (HK$210) was an excellent combination of textures and seafood flavours.
Baked fideua (short pieces of angel hair pasta) with seaweed, roasted garlic aioli and prawn jus
(HK$220) was a dish I would have been very happy to eat by myself. We were instructed to mix everything together: blobs of aioli, green and red seaweed, shiso sprouts, small bits of squid – and the combination of ingredients was enticing.
The main course of Iberico pork presa with smoked piquillo peppers (HK$360) was a mixed bag because it was unevenly cooked: one side was tough, while the part that was still slightly pink was tender and moist. The red piquillo peppers were delicious.
Our complaint about the caramelised Catalan foam (HK$115) was that the proportions were off: there was too much foam, and too little of the other ingredients, which included vanilla ice cream, a thin slice of dehydrated orange, honeycomb and crumble. Even with three of us sharing it, we couldn’t finish it.
Mercedes me, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, Central, tel: 2895 7398. About HK$500 without drinks or the service charge.