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Hong Kong restaurant reviews

Restaurant review: Beefbar in Central has a great selection of meat

Australian Black Market Black Angus short ribs were fantastic and there are cuts to suit all appetites, but soufflé was a letdown

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 17 February, 2016, 1:30pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 17 February, 2016, 3:17pm

The best thing about Beefbar is the beef, which should go without saying, except that steakhouses don’t always get it right. Beefbar offers a great selection, including certified Kobe, American corn-fed prime-grade Black Angus, and two types from Australia. The beef is available in an extensive range of cuts, served in reasonable sizes – too often at other places, you have plenty of choice if you want something that is 400g or larger, but if you have a small appetite, the only offering is filet mignon, which is the boneless chicken breast of the beef world.

Guinea fowl ravioli (HK$210) had a good amount of stuffing in tender pasta, although we couldn’t detect the chamomile in the light, clear broth.

My tuna and avocado tacos (HK$180) were technically tostadas; the tortilla was flat and crisp, instead of being wrapped around anything. The first one tasted dull, but it was nothing a little salt couldn’t cure because the tuna was of good quality.

I searched the menu for an unusual beef cut and found it in the Australian Black Market Black Angus short ribs (200g for HK$380). It was fantastic – the fatty, boneless meat had been slow-cooked so it was an even red throughout before being coated in herbs and seared. It was so rich I could only finish about three-quarters of it. My guest’s bone-in fillet (500g for HK$740) was much more austere, with leaner, firmer meat. We’re not sure what the point is of a bone-in fillet, though.

For accompaniments, the classic French fries (HK$80) were crisp outside and tender within, but the portion was paltry for the price. I liked the rich and creamy basil mashed potatoes (HK$80) more than my guest did, but we both loved the mixed mushrooms with chestnuts (HK$80).

Dessert of chocolate, sesame and caramel soufflé with yuzu ice cream (HK$180) disappointed. The menu said it was enough for two, but it would easily have fed four. It looked impressive: it rose spectacularly high above the copper pan, but the top was cake-like, while the bottom was soft and eggy. The yuzu ice cream, however, was deliciously refreshing.

I was recognised after all the food had been served, but before receiving the bill, and when it was time to pay, the side dishes and dessert had been comped.

Beefbar, 2/F Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House Street, Central, tel: 2110 8853. About HK$1,135 without drinks or the service charge (and if you’re not comped anything).