Newly opened Little Tai Hang in Tai Hang serves upscale comfort food

Soft opening reveals a European menu with a dash of flair, elegant decor and an outside terrace in upcoming ‘destination’ complex

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 02 June, 2016, 12:01pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 02 June, 2016, 12:00pm

Little Tai Hang, a new complex in the Hong Kong Island neighbourhood of Tai Hang (in case you couldn’t guess), is being promoted as a “destination” spot. When it fully opens later this year there will be a hotel, serviced apartments and food and beverage “concepts”, we’re told.

Bond, which has soft-opened, has a straightforward menu of comfort-food items. The decor is elegant but not stuffy, with an outside terrace where you can lounge or dine.

For starters the beetroot salad (HK$88) is refreshing and light, with salad leaves, sliced beetroot, peeled orange segments, pine nuts and goat’s cheese, though we thought they could be a bit more generous with the latter.

French onion soup (HK$78) arrived piping hot with a piece of toast covered in melted cheese. The soup was full of onions, but the broth didn’t have much flavour.

Ham and cheese bikini (HK$68) makes a delightful snack: a delicious combination of ham, melted scamorza cheese and truffle shavings served with a tomato dip.

The chef used to work at Italian restaurant Isola, so it’s not surprising the menu lists several pasta dishes. The pyrotechnic showstopper is the tableside spaghetti in a cheese wheel (HK$198), where a chef adds a dash of liquor into a crater in the wheel of cheese, then sets it alight. Cooked spaghetti is mixed into the melting cheese, before being heated up again on a portable gas stove.

While we enjoyed the presentation, the pasta was quite salty, and very heavy.

Much better was the pan-fried Chilean sea bass (HK$280) that came with small, plump clams in a tomato and saffron stew. The fish was perfectly cooked, and went well with the other ingredients.

For dessert, milk tea crème brulée (HK$68) hit the spot.

Bond is currently in its soft opening period and offers a 30 per cent discount.

Bond, 2/F Little Tai Hang, 98 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, tel: 2155 1777