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Grape & Grain | When pairing wine with Asian food, go straight to the sauce

From chilli crab to char siu, from Thai fishcakes to teppanyaki, when it comes to matching Asian food with wine, the usual rules don’t always apply, as seen at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Competition

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Fried fishcakes (tod man pla), a Thai dish best accompanied by a chilled Thai rosé

Watching a pair of dancers twirl and leap their way through a performance is enthralling.

To be at their peak, dancers must have great chemistry, be in sync, and bring just the right amount of strength to the partnership. The same applies to pairing wine with food. If a wine is too light, a rich dish will throw it off its feet; too heavy and it will weigh down the whole meal, like a ballerina failing to achieve lift.

Asian cuisines, with their complex and varied flavour combinations, dazzle our palates with fancy footwork. Unlike European wine matching traditions, where pairing is based on the key protein of the meal, such as meat or fish, sauce flavours take the lead in Asia. The “white wine with fish, red wine with meat” rules do not always apply, making pairing a challenge, but not impossible – a shoe-slapping Beaujolais can certainly hold its own against a quick-stepping chilli crab.

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The best wine pairings add another dimension to the meal and leave no component waiting in the wings. This judging criteria, applied at Hong Kong’s very own Asian food and wine pairing awards (part of the Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Competition), creates intelligent pairs beyond well-known labels.

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Monsoon Valley Blended Rose from Thailand goes well with spicy Thai fishcakes.
Monsoon Valley Blended Rose from Thailand goes well with spicy Thai fishcakes.
At the 2016 awards announced recently, tod man pla (Thai curried fishcakes with sweet chilli sauce) found its perfect match in Thailand’s Monsoon Valley Blended Rosé 2014. Wine writer and judge at the HKIWSC, Tersina Shieh, says the combination of the wine, fishcake and sauce created a new sensation. “The wine’s stone fruit and red fruit aromas exploded when tasted with the fishcake.” This pairing also proves that, in many cases, local wine pairs best with local cuisine – even in Asia.
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