Why Hong Kong chefs age fish used in sashimi and sushi – just as good steaks are aged

If you hear someone at a sushi restaurant comment on how the fish tastes very fresh, there’s a good chance that person is a sushi novice.

The description is as pointless as telling someone the dessert was sweet. What does “fresh” really mean? Many diners are under the misconception that good sashimi should come straight from the sea directly to your plate, in as short a time as possible. Often, that’s not the case, even in the finest restaurants in Japan. And it’s deliberate.

The truth is, certain types of fish are refrigerated and aged to enhance the texture and taste, in the same way good steaks are aged for flavour and tenderness. While sushi cognoscenti were aware of this, chefs outside Japan rarely talked about it – until now.

Growing interest in the science of food, as well as a better appreciation of preparation techniques, has brought to light the practice of ageing fish for raw consumption.

In Hong Kong, Okra’s Max Levy is at the forefront of this culinary practice. The chef was raised in Louisiana, worked in New York, trained in Japan and made his name in Beijing, so he’s criss-crossed enough boundaries and traditions to respect and defy them.

At Okra, he has openly come out with the fact that he ages some of his produce to create specific flavours and textures better than “fresh” fish can offer.