We were sad to hear about the closure of Island Tang in the Galleria – it was the first of the “Tang” restaurants (which also includes China Tang in Central and Harbour City), and was our favourite.

Taking its place is a branch of Chiu Tang (the original of which is in Wan Chai), and as its name suggests, the cuisine is Chiu Chow.

We ordered classic Chiu Chow dishes. The combination marinated meat platter (HK$238) showcased nice, fatty pig’s intestines, pork belly, crunchy pig ears, goose slices and tender pieces of bean curd in a light but well-flavoured sauce.

Even better was the signature marinated goose liver (HK$88 per piece). The liver – fat, soft and moist – was really delicious.

Pan-fried egg batter with baby oysters (HK$158) was a good version, with crisp edges and eggy and starchy at the centre. The omelette had plenty of oysters, and was well-seasoned so it didn’t need any of the fish sauce served on the side.

Sauteed sliced beef with kale in satay sauce (HK$228) was excellent. The meat was tender, the kale was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was light and not too peanutty.

Also excellent was the crispy Chiu Chow noodles with yellow chives (HK$168). Served with the traditional accompaniments of sugar and dark vinegar, the noodles – slightly oily, as expected – were an intriguing combination of sweet and savoury.