Alain Ducasse’s newly opened Rech in Hong Kong – gourmet dining without the stuffiness
With a million-dollar harbour view and dishes including the Michelin-star chef’s famous cookpot and Grenobloise-style skate wing, diners in space where Spoon was won’t mind its pricey bottled water
Just before Christmas, Spoon by Alain Ducasse in the InterContinental Hong Kong quietly closed. The restaurant that took its place is another one by the culinary maestro – Rech, the first of which opened in Paris in 1925. Gone are Spoon’s giant utensils hanging from the ceiling, the dim lighting and beige palette. Rech is like eating in someone’s home – less formal than Spoon, with more light. Welcome to the new era of gourmet dining without the stuffiness.
Guests in love seats can sit in front of the windows looking onto Victoria Harbour or have a drink or two by the bar. But that drink won’t be free: tap water is not available; you have to order Badoit water and that will set you back HK$120 a bottle.
Resist, if you can, eating too much bread – they offer many varieties, including seaweed crackers with a delicious concoction of tuna and olive oil, warm toasted country bread, and a seaweed baguette (although we couldn’t detect the seaweed flavour).
The amuse bouche was clams gratinée, but the freshness of the clam meat was lost in the breadcrumbs and cheese.
The focus at Rech is seafood and you can choose à la carte or a set menu. We went à la carte.
An appetiser of “club” crab mango (HK$240) was a refreshing light dish, with crabmeat between layers of thin Melba toast with romaine hearts and diced mango. We were encouraged to mix everything together before eating.
A much heartier appetiser was Ducasse’s famous cookpot (HK$180). The large pot held a thin but substantial layer of spelt with delicately sliced squid. It was delicious, but very filling.
For a main course, the Grenobloise-style skate wing (HK$460)topped with finely diced and fried potatoes was strong and buttery. The wild cod aioli (HK$380) contained a medley of seafood including a prawn, clams, cockles and octopus, and carrot, artichoke and courgette.
For dessert, Mr Rech (HK$120) fitted the bill – a kind of hazelnut ice cream sandwich topped with meringue and hot chocolate, which was surprisingly light.This was followed by a trio of sweets: ganache chocolates, a warm madeleine and yuzu marshmallow.
Rech by Alain Ducasse, Lobby Level, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2313 2323