Newly opened Hung Tong at the Kerry Hotel, Tsim Sha Tsui – uneven Cantonese with a twist
Some of the dishes didn’t match the menu and seemed like a disparate mix of ingredients; others were winners, especially the gluten puffs and desserts
The Kerry Hotel had only been open for only two weeks when we visited its Chinese restaurant, Hung Tong, for dinner. The hotel, designed by architect Rocco Yim and interior designer Andre Fu, is beautiful, with views of the east side of Hong Kong Island, and westward, towards Central.
Hung Tong is on the seventh floor, and the exposed brick, dark wood and leather chairs, give it the feel of a retro living room.
The menu features Cantonese food with a twist, with a focus on seafood because of the hotel’s location and history of shipping and trade. Because the restaurant is so new, the menu was limited, and there are still several kinks to sort out as the quality of the food was uneven.
Our first dish to arrive was the grilled eel tossed with osmanthus honey sauce (HK$170). The four pieces were nicely executed – perfectly cooked, and the sauce wasn’t cloying.
Next came the most expensive dish, listed on the menu as steamed fresh crab claw with truffle and egg white (HK$520). What we were served was different. The crab clawcame without egg white, but instead on a slice of white melon that had no flavour. It was surrounded by an orange sauce with bits of black truffle. It tasted like disparate ingredients on a plate, with none of the flavours integrating with each other.
Stir-fried prawn with mango and lime (HK$288) sounded intriguing, but it was unexpectedly spicy, and it had a subtle taste of salted duck egg yolk that was quite gritty; the chilli nor salted egg were not listed in the dish description. All the flavours were fighting with each other and confusing the taste buds.
However, there was a big improvement in the last savoury dish, vegetarian braised gluten puffs stuffed with assorted vegetables and porcini (HK$168). The gluten puffs were amazingly light, and we enjoyed the taste and execution.
Most of the desserts listed were standard fare. The chilled mango sago cream with pomelo (HK$58) was good, the fruity soup more on the thick, creamy side. We also enjoyed the royal steamed red date cake with coconut milk (HK$58). Once the steamer basket lid was opened, the fragrance of the red dates filled the air.Theywere layered with coconut milk, and the dessert wasn’t too sweet.
Hung Tong 7/F, Kerry Hotel, 38 Hung Luen Road, Hung Hom, tel: 2252 5888
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