We enjoyed the mild taste and soft texture of the steamed sea bass marinated in galangal and turmeric paste (HK$198), but it was too hard to eat. The sea bass was meant to be wrapped in lettuce leaves and topped with fresh herbs, but either the fish pieces were too large, or the lettuce leaves were too small.

Black angus beef sirloin with Phu Quoc green peppercorns and garlic butter (HK$168) tasted fine and the meat was tender, but it wasn’t the most exciting dish. Much better was the vegetable side dish that was served at the same time: crispy fried Brussels sprouts with sesame, soy, chilli and puffed green rice (HK$98). It wasn’t the prettiest presentation: the Brussels sprouts were blackened and shrivelled, but the cooking method had intensified the flavours and given the sprouts a slight chewiness.

The waitress told us at 9.30pm that it was time for the last order, even though we weren’t ready for dessert. She told us that we only had to order the dish, but the kitchen wouldn’t prepare it until after we finished the savoury courses.

We enjoyed the banana fritters with shredded coconut and jasmine rice (HK$98). The bananas weren’t that ripe, but their starchiness was balanced by the subtle sweetness of the coconut ice cream and palm sugar caramel.

Moi Moi by Luke Nguyen, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Road Central, tel: 2808 1086. About HK$415 without drinks or the service charge.

While you’re in the area: