Diner’s Diary
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A taste of the new menu at Caprice in Hong Kong’s Four Seasons hotel, where Guillaume Galliot is the new head chef

The Frenchman who’s moved from two-Michelin-star The Tasting Room in Macau has brought some favourites with him, and will also serve an omakase-style daily tasting menu at Four Seasons’ fine-dining restaurant

PUBLISHED : Monday, 19 June, 2017, 5:16pm
UPDATED : Monday, 19 June, 2017, 5:16pm

Hongkongers no longer need to schlep over to Macau to taste Guillaume Galliot’s food – the chef from two-Michelin-star The Tasting Room has recently taken over at Caprice in the Four Seasons Hong Kong.

Ironically, his predecessor at Caprice, Fabrice Vulin, ended up taking Galliot’s job in Macau, a development some local food writers have described as a “chef swap” but which the Hong Kong hotel insists is not the case. Nevertheless, the timing is coincidental.

Macau’s Tasting Room sets the stage for a culinary performance

We had the opportunity to try the updated menu at Caprice (Galliot has brought with him from The Tasting Room some of his favourite dishes, such as the contemporary onion soup hot and cold, and signature dessert of banana chocolate millefeuille with a scoop of cocoa sorbet).

First up was beef oyster tartare topped with caviar and gold leaf, followed by a refreshing lobster and tomato dish finished with tomato water and vanilla oil, and a very tender roast pigeon – sourced from the Loire Valley, in central France, where Galliot is from – prepared with confit legs, beetroot variation and port wine sauce.

Regulars at the French fine-dining restaurant won’t be bored by the choices on offer – Galliot has borrowed the Japanese “omakase” (meaning chef’s choice) menu concept; he and his team will create dishes each day based on what’s available to keep things fresh.

Galliot sees this as a good way to keep his team of cooks on their toes, and says they are already highly trained and up for the challenge.

Caprice in Hong Kong offers refreshing twist to traditional French fare

Another dish from The Tasting Room is the crab laksa with confit egg, leeks, coriander, hazelnut and sudachi lime. Galliot created it with his sous chef after they ate the Southeast Asian dish for lunch and decided to play around with the idea. He stresses it’s a French laksa with no noodles, but it still sounds delicious.

Caprice, 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, tel: 3196 8888