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Georgian cuisine: kaleidoscope of tastes and textures in a country that’s reclaiming its culinary identity

Sitting at a geographical crossroads between continents, Georgia’s dishes reflect the nation’s long history as a melting pot of Asian, Persian, Arab and European cultures

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Family and friends gather at a supra, or feast table, to celebrate the first birthday of a family’s first child. Photo: Alamy

Georgia is a country which, perhaps understandably, doesn’t elicit much in the way of knowledgeable responses when you say you are heading there. Reactions range from asking if it is a dangerous place to bewilderment that the food can be anything other than grim post-Soviet stodge.

Georgians have the Mongols to thank for their favourite dumpling

The culinary reality couldn’t be further from the truth – tables heave with a stunning kaleidoscope of tastes, textures and ingredients that make you rue the fact there isn’t a single dedicated Georgian restaurant anywhere in Hong Kong. There really should be.

While in Tbilisi, head to the old city. Photo: Chris Dwyer
While in Tbilisi, head to the old city. Photo: Chris Dwyer

Kazakhstan’s national airliner, Air Astana, is a good option to get from Hong Kong to the compact land wedged between Turkey and Russia; the traveller avoids long-haul flights and can make a stopover in the fascinating former Kazakh capital, Almaty. When you land in Georgia, omens are good from the start. Customs officers standing on the air bridge smile and say “hello” as you walk past, while passport control staff greet you with “Good afternoon and welcome to Georgia”.

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The native Georgian name for the country is Sakartvelo; it’s believed the name Georgia is derived from the Gurj, a Persianpeople who were devotees of St. George. The 3,000-year-old Georgian language is a thing of beauty. It is based on an alphabet with 33 letters and is closely related to Aramaic, the language spoken by Jesus.

Russian is still spoken by some but, as a proudly independent people since 1991, Georgians are reasserting their own culture, particularly when it comes to food.

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Georgia’s national dish is khachapuri, an utterly decadent bread that is topped, but also filled, with different cheeses. Photo: Alamy
Georgia’s national dish is khachapuri, an utterly decadent bread that is topped, but also filled, with different cheeses. Photo: Alamy
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