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A sunny-side-up egg, double patties, “smash”, peanut butter – burgers can get needlessly complicated. Andrew Sun mouths off about why it is so hard to get a plain, simple hamburger these days. Photo: Shutterstock
Opinion
Mouthing Off
by Andrew Sun
Mouthing Off
by Andrew Sun

I just want a plain old burger. Is that too much to ask? No one requested double patties, smash burgers or eggs sunny side up

  • In general, a messy burger with juices and sauces spilling out is a good thing – but Andrew Sun was unprepared to get one with a sunny-side-up egg in it
  • Let people do what they like with a burger in private – they can top it with whatever takes their fancy – but where have all the plain, simple hamburgers gone?

Sometimes you just want a plain, simple hamburger. However, the arms race that chefs and restaurant marketing teams conjure often goes quite over the top.

We all know what a basic burger should be – a reliable beef patty between nice, pillowy buns. Toppings are where you can go posh or extravagant, from gourmet cheese to spicy mayo, bacon, pickles, tomato, mushroom and onion, and various other unconventional condiments.

At a diner recently, what I didn’t expect was to order a burger and have it arrive topped with a sunny-side up-egg. It was a funky little spot, geared to students and locals and with little food buzz, so my lunch expectations were quite tempered.

Clearly, I also didn’t read the menu very thoroughly.

In general, a messy burger with juices and sauces spilling out is a good thing. Most of the time, you want that. I just wasn’t prepared for sloppy yolk all over my face and hands.

Eventually, I resorted to a knife and fork because I was licking my paws more than the Labrador retriever in the corner.

The single patty sandwich at Five Guys is called a “little hamburger”. Photo: Shutterstock

Other burger chains offer a gluttonous smackdown with double patties. Unless you’re a rugby player trying to bulk up, nobody needs a double.

This is my beef with the Five Guys franchise. The regular “hamburger” has two patties, while they call the single patty sandwich a “little hamburger”. It’s misleading because you assume something “little” would be the size of a slider.

To me, that’s just a disingenuous way to con customers into ordering a double burger.

We all know what a basic burger should be – a reliable beef patty between nice, pillowy buns. Toppings are where you can go posh or extravagant. Photo: Shutterstock
It’s almost as gimmicky as the idea of a “smash” hamburger. Conventional beef patties are pre-shaped. Smash burgers place a loose ball of meat on the grill, which is then pressed under heat.

The theory is more of the pressed meat touches the hot surface, thus generating more caramelisation, a crustier texture and greater flavour. The meat also ends up more irregularly shaped so you have the perception of artisanal cooking.

But is the flavour really better? I am sceptical. If you’re looking for something different, then, sure, go for it. Generally, I’m not enough of a burger nerd to engage in frivolous debates about regular burgers versus smash burgers.

McDonald's is promoting a “Prosperity Burger” series for the upcoming Lunar New Year festivities. Photo: McDonald's/Sanrio
I’m also not fussy about sesame buns versus brioche; Angus beef or wagyu ground; Cheddar over Swiss, or; contentious additions like avocado, kimchi, Thousand Island dressing and peanut butter sriracha. People can do whatever they want in private with their own buns.

Obviously, I think a soft egg is far too messy and detracts from the intended eat-with-your-hands efficacy of a sandwich, but clearly others enjoy the extra-wet-napkin gooeyness.

I don’t even have an issue with the Frankenstein burger creations of McDonald’s. For the coming Lunar New Year, it has concocted a “Prosperity Burger” series featuring an elongated beef patty drenched in black pepper sauce.

It is available plain with specks of onion – or topped with hash brown. Huh? There is also a chicken burger option featuring a ring of pineapple.

The most uncomfortable part of the Prosperity burger is the branded Hello Kitty paper it is wrapped in. Photo: McDonald's/Sanrio

Honestly, it sounds horrifying but kind of yummy. And yes, I did try it. The black pepper is overwhelming, reminiscent of the cornflour gravy in Hong Kong-style iron plate steakhouses, but it kind of appeals to my Hong Kong nostalgia.

The most uncomfortable part of the Prosperity burger is the branded Hello Kitty paper it is wrapped in. I don’t know what the Sanrio cartoon has to do with Lunar New Year, but check your gastro and macho credibility while unwrapping your Hello Kitty hash brown hamburger.

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