Restaurant review: Shiro
Shop 1301, 13/F Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay
Tel: 2155 8066
Price: about HK$350 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: the seating is a mixture of high stools at the kaiten (conveyor belt sushi) counters and low tables.
Pros: service was quick and efficient.
Cons: Shiro used to be in Pacific Place, and it served good modern Japanese food. With the move to Causeway Bay, the price point is lower, but the menu is far less interesting and innovative. Because the food comes out from different stations, it is served whenever it is ready - so we had hot and cold dishes at the same time. There was nothing special about the black pearl sushi roll with black flying fish roe (HK$48), although it was listed under "featured items". It was just a large rice ball with a scant amount of filling (there's a choice of prawn, uni, or different types of fish) and black fish eggs. Futomaki with mixed sashimi (HK$40 for two pieces) had three types of fish, as well as other ingredients, but none of the flavours were distinct. The grilled dishes we chose were failures: the salt-grilled tongue with shichimi dressing (HK$68) had pieces that were too soft, while others were stringy. The minced chicken ball teriyaki skewers (HK$48) had a mushy texture.
Recommended dishes: the seared scallop with cod roe sushi (HK$40 for two) was tender and perfectly cooked. There was a whole page in the menu extolling the ramen dishes, so we tasted two. Both the slow-cooked pork loin and vegetables in thick, milky pork stock (HK$98) and the charcoal-grilled chicken with soya chicken stock (HK$88) were fine, although they had too many noodles in proportion to the soup. The chicken, interestingly, was covered in Japanese mayonnaise which we love.
What else? Shiro is part of the Aqua group of restaurants.