Restaurant review: RaIronMen

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 21 February, 2013, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 21 February, 2013, 1:45pm

4 Sun Wui Road, Causeway Bay

Tel: 2808 2728

Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm

Cuisine: modern ramen

Price: HK$280 per person for five bowls of ramen between four people, without drinks or service charge.

Ambience: quiet and comfortable.

Pros: the menu states the cut of the noodle, which varies in width according to the lightness or richness of the broth. The service was very good: after our first two bowls were served, the staff realised we were sharing everything so they began plating all the portions - carefully dividing them and garnishing them properly.

Cons: it's a bit of a mental leap to pay HK$380 for a bowl of noodles, although the quality was high. A side dish of crispy potato cake stuffed with wagyu beef (HK$68) was nothing special.

Recommended dishes: Abura soba (HK$120) is a "dry" ramen (the soup was served on the side) that had thick noodles with a rich, intense dry seafood sauce, and was served with cured Okinawa pork belly, bamboo shoots and crunchy almonds. The broth served with shio ramen (HK$110) was lighter and more chicken flavoured than the one served with the abura soba, and the pork belly had been rolled and then braised. Caesar salad ramen (HK$120) didn't taste like its namesake but we liked it, with its bright green broth topped with umami foam that tasted of parmesan. Beef consommé with Kagoshima A5 wagyu (HK$380) was the most indulgent ramen. The broth was light but intense in flavour, the grilled beef wasn't overcooked in the hot broth, and the asparagus was al dente. Alsaka king crab with Hokkaido sweet corn (HK$280) had the heaviest broth. The soft crab meat and crunchy corn were contrasts in taste and texture. Hokkaido egg (HK$20) was beautiful, with a firm but tender white and a jelly-like yolk.

What else? This space was Mist Ramen, then (briefly) the Thai restaurant, Sawasdelight, before it became RaIronMen.

Susan Jung