Rice is part of our shared culture, but few consumers know much about it

In the January sunshine on the Asia Society Hong Kong Centre's roof garden, a handful of villagers from Choi Yuen Tsuen are cooking and sharing char guar (Hakka teacakes). They roll and shape glutinous rice, then fill them with either a savoury mix of white radish, dried shrimps and celery or crushed peanuts, with chopped Chinese fever vine and mallotus leaves.

Neighbours Wong Kwai-chun and Fung Yu-chuk explain how these traditional steamed glutinous rice cakes have acquired a new significance for them and their fellow villagers.

In 2009, Choi Yuen Tsuen residents learned their homes would be torn down to make way for the Hong Kong-Guangzhou high-speed railway. As they took a stand against the plans at the now famous demonstrations outside Legco in late 2009 and early 2010, the villagers made char guar to sustain them during the long hours protesting, and gave them away to their supporters.

"Food was used as a political method, in a peaceful way, to protest against the government decision, and to show in a very peaceful manner that all they wanted was to keep their homes and to keep their way of life," says Daisy Tam Dic-sze, research assistant professor, department of humanities and creative writing, Hong Kong Baptist University.

The snack has since then become symbolic of the villagers' desire to maintain a sense of community. Reluctant to relocate to urban areas, about 40 of the 150 households opted to pool their compensation money to buy land so they could still farm and live together. Two years ago they began rebuilding homes at Choi Yuen New Village, which is close to their former home. Fung explains that the villagers enjoy cooking together in outdoor open areas, something they are striving to recreate and continue in their new village.

"Coming together to cook is very important for family and the villagers are our family," says Wong, who gives guided tours of the village that include organic farming and cooking lessons.