China adores red wine. If I was asked to pick one annoying mantra of a great many writers, consultants and educators (the "vintelligentsia"), it would be that. It's not surprising, since anywhere from 80 to 90 per cent of what is in the market is red.
But what is surprising - and possibly depressing - is the widespread belief that this is set in stone. Nothing underscores this attitude more than claims that Chinese favour red wine because the colour is lucky.
But if red wine is so lucky, why has it only been popular for a few decades of China's 5,000-year history? Moreover, what about the fact that the nation's leading alcohol, baijiu, translates to "white wine"? I am still waiting for answers.
No doubt, red wine is dominant at the moment. It is seen as a status symbol, which is crucial in a culture where gifts and entertainment have such importance. It is also perceived as having health benefits, the idea of the French wine paradox has a good foothold.
But we are also witnessing a watershed in the wine market. The government austerity programme initiated by President Xi Jinping 18 months ago severely curtailed spending by officials and shifted the market towards consumers.
What do they like? There is a good deal of evidence they enjoy white wine. Professor Ma Huiqin of China Agricultural University has taught wine appreciation for 12 years, to thousands of students, and her annual poll finds they prefer white wine at a ratio of two to one.
My own blind tastings with consumers over the past five years have found inexpensive whites receive equal, if not higher, scores than their red counterparts.