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Dark tourism in Southeast Asia: where to go and what to avoid

The Khmer Rouge’s legacy in Cambodia, and after-effects of the Indian Ocean tsunami and Nepal’s earthquake are all drawing ‘dark tourists’, sparking fears of exploitation. Here is our guide to the seeing region’s darker side ethically

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Skulls on display at The Killing Fields Museum, near Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo: Marissa Carruthers
Marissa Carruthers

Insensitive, grinning selfies being snapped in front of torture tools, visitors pocketing fragments of bones and Pokemon Go players storming a genocide museum are among the reports of disrespectful behaviour at sites serving as memorials to the estimated two million people who died under the Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia.

“We have seen a definite growth in the role of dark tourism,” says travel industry expert Carolyn Childs, co-founder of MyTravelResearch.com, referring to a global appetite for travel to destinations scarred by death and suffering. “There is no doubt a proportion of travellers are either ‘tick list’ travellers or whose interest has darker motivations.”

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As travel becomes more accessible, and the trend of sharing experiences via social media more widespread, the question is: do such macabre experiences play a role in educating and atoning, or are they simply becoming vulgar and voyeuristic attractions?

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In Overbooked: The Exploding Business of Travel and Tourism, author and war correspondent who covered Cambodia throughout the 1970s and ’80s, Elizabeth Becker accuses the country’s dark tourism industry of being exploitive and disrespectful to those who died, and those who survived.
Portraits of inmates taken as they entered Khmer Rouge S-21 prison in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo: Marissa Carruthers
Portraits of inmates taken as they entered Khmer Rouge S-21 prison in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo: Marissa Carruthers
However, today she concedes that sites can be either educational or exploitative – depending on their purpose, how they are curated and how true they are to the history of the site. “Sites that memorialise the darkest of evil deeds are necessary, if for no other reason to ensure they are not forgotten or the history rewritten,” she says , adding that they should avoid commercialisation. “The best are those that show utmost respect for the victims by putting their stories at the centre.”

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Cambodian Kimhean Pich, CEO of travel company Discover the Mekong, also believes they serve a purpose. “For local people, they are places to learn about our bitter history and to make sure we avoid repeating this mistake in the future,” says Pich. “But visitors need to understand the need to be respectful and remember where they are.”
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