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A sceptic’s guide to achieving overnight spirituality and enlightenment – Korean Buddhist temple stay explored

The Beomeosa Temple, near Busan, is one of more than 30 monastic retreats in South Korea where visitors can immerse themselves in a temple’s life and routines and get a meta-detox from 21st century life

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A monk leads a temple stay group at the Beomeosa Temple, near Busan, in the proper ways and means of meditation. Photo: Andrew Sun
Andrew Sun

It’s not just luxury villas that promote the benefits of being able to unplug and unwind – it’s the principal mantra of a Korean Buddhist temple stay too.

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The Beomeosa temple, on a mountain south of Busan, is one of more than 30 monastic retreats in South Korea offering accommodation in an ascetic setting. Other countries have Buddhist B&Bs, but in Korea it’s a chance to immerse yourself in a temple’s life and routines. People can choose to stay for up to a week if they are serious about Buddhism, but many urban dwellers opt for a one-night stay.

These meta-detox experiences are open to all – including meat-eating, Facebook-addicted non-believers like myself.

Our group consists of about 15 people, and once we’ve changed into loose-fitting purple tops and grey sweatpants, our first activity will be simply to get to know each other and discuss Buddhism.

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We are urged to sit cross-legged on the floor – something that might come naturally to yoga practitioners but which after about 15 minutes proves challenging for many of us, especially older participants.

The grounds where temple stay guests live are sparse in decoration but are surrounded by nature. Photo: Andrew Sun
The grounds where temple stay guests live are sparse in decoration but are surrounded by nature. Photo: Andrew Sun
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We’ll be doing this a lot over the next 24 hours, and it begins to dawn on me that this temple stay might actually feel like work.

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