FOOD & WINE
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Hong Kong restaurant reviews

Restaurant review: Kokomi, Japanese - top ingredients, intriguing combinations

Roka's replacement in the basement of the Pacific Place mall uses high-quality ingredients in some unexpected dishes

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 03 June, 2015, 11:37pm
UPDATED : Monday, 08 June, 2015, 5:24pm

Cuisine: Japanese

Price: about HK$350 without drinks or the service charge.

Ambience: it was quiet on a weeknight.

Recommended dishes: the beef tataki (HK$118), featuring thinly sliced, rare, tender beef on top of mixed greens with a flavourful dressing, was the best dish of the night. We ordered the Kokomi roll (HK$138), thinking that something named after the restaurant should be good, and also because we were curious: with minced tuna, sweet shrimp and salmon roe laid on top of what's basically cucumber maki, it's the opposite of Japanese subtlety. It was better than expected because the ingredients were of good quality, and came with fresh wasabi. Crab, avocado and tofu salad with spicy dressing (HK$78) was also fine, and a generous portion for the price. Beef sukiyaki (HK$238), with four large, thin slices of tender beef, was subtle.

Pros: for the most part, the service was helpful, and our waiter told us when we had ordered enough.

Cons: although there were plenty of empty tables, the hostess seated a family with a noisy child next to us, so we asked to be moved to an area where we could hear each other. The dishes from the teppan (grill) needed more seasoning, including the chicken wings with salt (HK$68) and fried rice with sea urchin (HK$118). Salmon with corn mashed potato (HK$98) was the most disappointing dish. We thought it would be a type of salmon and mashed potato fritter or patty, but it was grilled salmon with a scoop of potato that wasn't hot enough. The garlic in the beef tenderloin with crispy garlic (HK$198) was overcooked and bitter.

What else? Kokomi replaces Roka, which occupied the space previously. 

Kokomi, shop 002, LG1 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty , tel: 2386 1255. Open: 11.30am-11pm