Restaurant review: Moyo, Central - Korean-Italian fusion delicious
Price: about HK$260 without drinks or the service charge
Ambience: friendly, and comfortable, with good music played at a reasonable sound level.
Recommended dishes: kimchi disco fries (HK$88) sounds like an unlikely mess, with kimchi, onion, pork, cheese, sriracha and sour cream piled onto fries. But it was a delicious mess, with different flavours, textures and temperatures. Pesto rice cakes (HK$158) had a rich sauce combining pesto, seaweed and plenty of parmesan. The sauce was very salty if eaten on its own, but went well with the chewy rice cakes (although there weren't enough). Brown bossam (HK$198) wasn't the expected cold pork belly with lettuce wraps; instead, the tender belly was warm, with a light fermented bean paste sauce, pickled onions and delicious kimchi (different from the side dish).
Pros: Korean-Italian doesn't sound like a winner, but the food was much better than expected and we preferred the fusion dishes.
Cons: we've tasted (and made) much better kimchi (four types for HK$68). Korean fried chicken balls with four seasons sauces (HK$188) weren't really balls — they were very large, boneless chunks. The chicken was moist with a crunchy crust, but the "sauces" were just salt and pepper, honey mustard, soy, and something described as "spicy" (but which turned out to be like shrimp cocktail sauce). We prefer Korean fried chicken to be sauced by the kitchen, with something more interesting than this.
What else? Moyo doesn't take bookings, but we arrived at 7pm and didn't have to wait for a table.
Moyo, 36 Aberdeen Street, Central, tel: 2858 2777. Open: Monday-Saturday 6pm-11pm