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Black-themed fare at newly opened Kettle Black lacks consistency

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 01 July, 2015, 12:05pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 01 July, 2015, 8:24pm

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Kettle Black (tel: 3628 2238) opened with little fanfare on Wellington Street, Central, more than a week ago and is still finding its feet with the menu. The restaurant seems keen to present black-themed Western dishes, although some are not monochromatic at all. The eatery feels spacious, with white walls and black window frames, but the lighting gets pretty dim in the evenings.

Our server recommended the Kettle Black garlic bread (HK$78), three thin slices of bread with tiny cubes of garlic on top and more in a small dish. The flavour fell short, tasting more sweet than pungent.

Things improved slightly with the black truffle porcini mushroom with cordyceps flower pizza (HK$148. The last ingredient is not the highly prized cordyceps fungus, but something less expensive. The thin crust pizza was crunchy, but the portion was small.

The black beer slow-cooked pluma (HK$188), or Spanish pork, was a pleasant surprise; tender and flavourful with seasoned roasted potato chunks and salad greens.

Unfortunately, the tiramisu (HK$78) - another dish recommended by the server - had an inconsistent texture as some of the ladyfingers were crunchy and others had turned to mush.

In Admiralty, the Marriott Cafe has been replaced by JW Cafe (tel: 2810 8366), continuing the buffet concept with more premium seafood.

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