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Food Review: Orto - vino - ristorante

Susan Jung

 

Orto - vino - ristorante
3/F, 11 Stanley Street, Central
Tel: 2327 4884
Open: Monday-Saturday noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight

Cuisine: Italian

Price: about HK$420 without drinks or the service charge

Ambience: the elevator doors open right into the high-ceilinged restaurant space, which has shades of white, brown and beige.

Pros: the terrace looks like a relaxing place to be when the weather co-operates. For the most part, we enjoyed the food, which is served in large, hearty portions.

Cons: with the restaurant less than half full on a rainy week night, it felt a bit bleak. Nobody was at the large bar, and the waiters hovered a bit too much because they didn't have much to do. The tuna tartare with citrus dressing and thyme (HK$168) was a little too acidic. I didn't particularly care for the tiramisu (HK$68) - the flavour was fine, but I like it to be rich, creamy and smooth, rather than light and fluffy.

Recommended dishes: Norcia ham and buffalo mozzarella (HK$168). A generous serving of silky-textured ham and soft cheese. The fresh tagliatelle with cream of truffle and porcini mushrooms (HK$198, above) had al dente pasta and a rich sauce. The ricotta and spinach ravioli with butter and sage sauce (HK$168) was tender with a subtle flavour. The montanara-style pork fillet with cheese and cherry tomato sauce (HK$198, right) came as two large, flat pieces of breaded pork that were fried before topped with the other ingredients and baked. The meat was tender and moist, and the sautéed spinach and roasted potatoes served with it were well cooked.

What else? The building has a number of interesting places: Liberty Private Works, the modern Japanese Gyotaku, Misocool and Taiwanese street food joint The Night Market.

susan.jung@scmp.com

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