the menu is very large, which makes it difficult to decide, and at lunch, there is even more on offer such as dim sum and set meals. We ordered the fresh yam with sesame dressing (HK$68) because it sounded intriguing. The yam turned out to be mountain yam, known for its slippery texture, but that meant the sauce failed to cling to it. For the steamed egg white with prawns (HK$138), the former was too firm (over-thickened, we think, with cornstarch) but the prawns on top were firm and crunchy. Sweet and sour pork with preserved egg and pickled shallots (HK$118) was flavourful, but the pork's batter was too thick.

a mixed roasted meat platter (HK$138) featured a slightly chewy and tough pork belly, but the honey-glazed barbecued pork (right) was fantastic. The sweet glaze coated the well-layered meat, which had a few nicely charred bits. The deep-fried chicken (HK$168, above), which my guest pre-ordered, was another excellent dish. The skin was delicately crisp, the meat was full of flavour and even the breast was juicy. For dessert, the red bean soup with 30-year-old dried tangerine peel (HK$28 a bowl) had a lighter texture than most versions, and the distinctive, complex flavour of the aged peel infused the soup.

If you have deep pockets, the seafood, swimming in the brightly lit tank, looked inviting.