Seventh Son Restaurant
5/F-6/F Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Road, Wan Chai
Tel: 2892 2888
Open: 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm
Price: about HK$600 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: it's impossible to avoid making comparisons between this restaurant and Fook Lam Moon, the "tycoon's canteen" which is a 10-minute walk away on Johnston Road. Seventh Son was opened by Chui Wai-kwan, the seventh son of Fook Lam Moon founder Chui Fook-chuen.
Chui Wai-kwan left the lucrative family business due to in-fighting between him and an elder brother.
The menu has many of the specialities of Fook Lam Moon and is about the same price (in other words, quite expensive). Seventh Son is smaller, newer and the noise level was uncomfortably high.
Pros: Chui Wai-kwan was eating with a group at a table next to ours. Our server was friendly and remembered one of my guests, who is a VIP at Fook Lam Moon.
Cons: we ordered gai lan with mung bean noodles and dried fish powder (HK$120), but were served choi sum.It was overcooked - a cardinal sin in a Cantonese restaurant.
Recommended dishes: baked, stuffed crab shell with onion and crab meat (HK$160 each) could have used slightly less onion, but the crab meat was sweet and plentiful. Deep-fried frog legs with garlic and chilli (HK$240) had a delicately crisp coating and moist, tender meat. The highlight of the meal was duck that had been cooked, mostly deboned and stuffed with barley, mushroom, chestnuts and salted egg yolks (HK$400). This dish can be dry and stringy, but the meat was succulent and fillings flavourful.
What else? They waived the HK$200 corkage on the bottle of wine. There's a separate menu that concentrates on expensive items, such as dried seafood and bird's nest.