People say the art of eating xiao long bao (steamed soup dumpling) is to first carefully bite off the top and sip a mouthful of the hot savoury broth inside.
But that doesn't really work at King's Dumplings, the new Wan Chai outlet of the popular Taiwanese food chain. At least when we tried the classic crab roe steamed dumplings (HK$46 per serving), the filling - mostly crab meat with almost no pork - had a broth that was too greasy to enjoy.
The Hong Kong chain has 15 outlets in 10 major cities on the mainland, but the new flavours the restaurant introduced on this side of the harbour had a sweet Japanese twist.
For those who enjoy sweet dishes, the desserts here will be the attraction.
The taro steamed dumplings (HK$32 per serving) was a delightful fusion dish. The chef added a thin layer of sweet rice cake (made from glutinous rice) to a traditional dumpling wrapper, then filled it with mashed taro.
Even better was the chocolate steamed dumpling (HK$28 per serving). An Asian take on the ubiquitous chocolate lava cake, this had a dumpling wrapper filled with dark chocolate, which melted when steamed, so that when you bit into it, the soft, molten centre flowed out.
The lunch sets offer a bowl of noodles, four dumplings and a soup for HK$78. Afternoon tea is served from 2.15pm-5pm, and includes an appetiser and bowl of noodles for HK$46.
King's Dumpling, Brighton Hotel, G/F-1/F 128 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, tel: 2890 6366. Open: 11am-11pm. Branches in Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2489 8066; San Po Kong, tel: 2327 3368