My 48 Hours in Mumbai

has been visiting Mumbai for more than 30 years. The photographer and consulting creative director was born and raised in London and now splits his time between Shanghai, Hong Kong and Britain, but Mumbai remains one of his favourite cities.

"My father is Parsi and grew up in Mumbai, and when I was young we'd come to visit relatives at least once a year," he tells me. The last time Randeria was in the city he was art-directing a fashion shoot for a Chinese magazine. That was a hectic trip, he says, but trying to see the metropolis in 48 hours is going to be particularly chaotic.

"This is the fourth most populated place on the planet but, like in Manhattan or Hong Kong, everyone's squeezed into an enclosed space, surrounded by water on all sides. You just have to go with it and enjoy the pandemonium."

Mumbai was once a series of islands, which were taken by the Portuguese in 1534 and given to the British when Catherine of Braganza, the King of Portugal's daughter, married Charles II in 1661. During the 18th century, the land between the islands was reclaimed, making the city into the unified whole it is today. However, Randeria says the different districts, many of which were once separate islands, have retained their own distinct character.

"The most historic part is Colaba in the south. This is where you find much of the heritage architecture, including the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. It's the finest in the city — one of the best hotels in the world. If you've only got two nights in Mumbai, it really is the only place to stay."

The Taj was opened by a wealthy Parsi called Jamsetji Tata in 1903. Tata was irked by the "whites only" policy at the other fine hotels of the day, so he decided to build India's grandest accommodation, and open the doors to everyone. The place is dripping with history, famed for its immaculate service and serves some of the city's best food.