The new Ritz-Carlton Kyoto lives up to the hype
Graeme Green
Expectations can be a tricky business. When everyone's talking up a film as "brilliant" or "a classic", it's difficult to see it without questioning if it meets the hype. The same goes for hotels. But I still looked forward to the February opening of The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto, as I had previously stayed in its Tokyo counterpart.
The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto is the first big luxury hotel to open in the city, which is strange, given how many options there are in Tokyo. But I'm told land in the historic Japanese city, the country's former capital, has been hard to come by.
That seems to be changing: Four Seasons and Aman are both said to be planning to open here in the next year or so. For now, Ritz-Carlton is leading the charge - and in style.
The 134-room hotel has an "urban resort" concept. It's near the downtown area, a 15-minute walk from the famous geisha district of Gion, but it feels warm and calming as you walk through the door.
There are bonsai trees, works by Kyoto artists, and large wooden chandeliers in the lobby, next to the Lobby Lounge. The latter is already popular with local families for afternoon tea, as are the macarons and other cakes in the Pierre Hermé shop near the entrance.
I stay in a luxury Kamogawa room. Everything still looks and smells showroom new. The room is long and spacious, modern but decorated with Japanese elegance. It's simple, uncluttered, and refined.
There's a little dark wood, but mostly the feel is soft and subdued, with beige, cream and white, all gently and indirectly lit. There's a single painting on the wall and a bonsai tree by the big window that looks out onto the Kamogawa river and the mountains outside the city.
The river is popular with joggers, dog-walkers and lots of other locals, so it doesn't feel very private. Put it this way: if you're coming out of the shower or getting changed, you'll want the blinds down.
The bathroom has a rain shower and a big black bathtub, with Japan's celebrated cherry blossoms (best seen around late March and April) worked into the design on the wall and tub. The sink area has three gleaming mirrors, the middle one transforming into a TV screen, just in case you want to catch the news while having a shave - a smart touch, if a little gimmicky.
The hotel spa is outstanding and uses ESPA products, like the Tokyo hotel.
I go for a 90-minute Ryokucha Serenity Ritual. A foot soak, rub and scrub relax instantly. Next, the therapist gives me a gentle pummelling with hot poultices containing green tea and lemon grass. This is followed by a firm body and head massage.
There are two restaurants in the hotel, and both are impressive - they have to be in a foodie city like Kyoto. Italian restaurant La Locanda has a rich, chocolatey feel from all the mahogany in the bar and the chic dining room.
There's a wine cellar and a designated room for cheeses and hanging hams.
As well as fine Italian fare, including freshly made pasta and gnocchi, there's an extensive wine list with a masterful sommelier to make recommendations to accompany the food. Before dinner each night, I make time for a swim.
Next to the gym and sauna, the pool is quiet in the evenings. It's long and thin, with a cool wave design. It's beautifully lit with candle lanterns - a great place to unwind after a day of temple-hopping and geisha-spotting around Kyoto.
In short: expectations met.
rooms start at 56,500 yen (HK$4,300). The Ritz-Carlton suite is 1,007,000 yen. Prices include breakfast.
