Wine tasting: Alsace wine from Hugel & Fils
Sarah Wong
On his "working honeymoon" Etienne Hugel combines his passions - wine and his wife Kaoru. His main obsession is to convert Asians to the wines of Alsace, which he describes as golden and happy. Asia is still full of red wine lovers, but that is rapidly changing. Alsace is very much underrated and provides exceptional value for money. It is known for its white grape varieties - riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot blanc, pinot gris, muscat and sylvaner. Pinot noir, the sole red variety in the region, is a blending component in the local sparkling Crémant d'Alsace wines. This, too, is changing as Alsace is affected by climate change. In the past the quality of wines was variable due to adverse weather conditions. Nowadays, there is consistency in vintage conditions and grapes are able to attain optimum ripeness. Higher temperatures also mean the quality of pinot noir is improving.
Pinot gris is Alsace's misunderstood underdog. It is opposite in style to the ubiquitous pinot grigio, which is often pale, neutral and lacking in character. Hugel says that the Alsace pinot gris is a versatile wine and the most Burgundian variety. It does not have, he says, "the sharp acidity of riesling" or the "spiciness of gewürztraminer".
A hint of honey, floral, citrus and mineral notes. Full body with great fruit intensity, and finishing very long. Very youthful. Has the body and intensity to pair with spicy Thai and Indian dishes. HK$590
Apart from Japan, gewürztraminer is the best-selling Alsatian wine in Asia. It is flamboyant with perfumed, lychee fruit on the nose.
Vendange tardive (VT) means that the grapes have been harvested late. VT wines are only produced during great vintages. The botrytis (noble rot) adds to the richness of the wine by giving it honey and marmalade notes.
Honey, lychee and kumquat. Full bodied, velvety, with great fruit intensity. Well balanced sweetness and acidity. A seductive wine and finishing very long. Still very youthful. Sugar levels are well integrated and this wine will pair well with rich, savoury dishes. Try with braised pork and Beijing duck. HK$450 for a 375ml bottle.
If you are looking for a wine that encapsulates Alsace, it is Gentil. It is Hugel's most accessible wine by price and quality. Hugel calls it "the perfect introduction to Alsace". It is a blend of the six classic varieties, sylvaner and pinot blanc being more dominant.
Crisp green apple, floral and citrus notes on the nose. Medium body with refreshing acidity and a clean finish. An approachable, easy to drink style. Perfect on its own, but will pair well with seafood-based dishes from sushi to steamed fish. HK$160
