Wine tasting: Burgundy may be difficult to find in future

Burgundy is in an enviable position: Pierre-Henry Gagey, CEO of Maison Louis Jadot and president of the Burgundy Wine Council (BIVB), says he worries that there is not enough wine. In 2012 and 2013 there were small vintages, with volumes dropping by 50 per cent. Demand now exceeds supply by 10-15 per cent. In Hong Kong, there are a growing number of merchants offering Burgundies, and auction prices for the famous labels are fetching stratospheric prices.

In Burgundy, winemakers work with a single grape variety — pinot noir for reds, chardonnay for whites. So, it is important to be very precise. The winemaker aims to highlight the mosaic of the land and its soils, and the varietal character of the grape plays a secondary role. Burgundy lovers are seduced by the intricacies that the wines provide. To highlight the terroir, Gagey uses little oak. He compares oak to seasoning, saying, "Oak is good when you cannot taste it. In food, if you can taste salt then it is too much."

Gagey's advice for Burgundy lovers is to buy the wines young. Production is small and the wines may be difficult to find in the future. From the past decade, he believes the best vintages were 2002, 2005 and 2009.