Weird and wacky: the hidden wonders of Tokyo nightlife

For sheer volume and surreal other-worldliness that will leave you blinking, nowhere compares to Tokyo. Where else can you start the evening with psychedelic dinner theatre, sample some of the best beer and whisky on the planet, receive a few lashes from a dominatrix, then greet the wee hours with a cocktail in the company of real live penguins? The downside? Tokyo is expensive and huge, addresses are often non-existent, English rarely spoken, and most of the good places are well off the tourist radar. Don't panic: we've got the insider's guide.

LIFE IS A ROBOT CABARET
How about enjoying a beer while post-apocalyptic babes in leather bikinis ride robots and battle for the future of the universe? This one's hardly off the tourist track since Anthony Bourdain called it "the best show on earth", but Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku is an absolute must-see. Be sure to make a reservation; tickets are ¥6,000 (HK$500).
1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku

ART BAR DONE RIGHT
Art bars are trendy at the moment, though most are overpriced and obnoxious. That's not the case with Bar Kodoji, a "photographer's bar" in Shinjuku's Golden Gai bar district. Kodoji is tiny and packed to the rafters with rare Japanese photography books. Fans of the art form may well see one of their heroes propped up at the bar. Low-key with a healthy dose of grit, Kodoji is one of Tokyo's coolest places to get a drink. Kodoji doesn't advertise its address. Just ask around.