After three years of running the kitchen at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Landmark, Olivier Elzer is striking out on his own with (tel: 2505 6228). Taking the space in Lee Gardens Two formerly occupied by Habitu and Harakan-S, it is now a sophisticated dining spot complete with a bar facing the open kitchen. Sound familiar?

The food is contemporary French, and Elzer takes the stuffiness out of the dining experience as the majority of dishes on the menu are available in tasting portions to encourage guests to "mix and match".

We liked the refreshing taste of the seared tuna and avocado starter (above), and for mains, the crispy boneless duck confit, and we loved the pan-seared skate wing. Be sure to save room for the impeccably executed passion fruit soufflé and mango sorbet. Our only quibble was the cheese platter, priced at HK$188 for a small portion.