Shop 221, UG/F The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2703 9333
Price: about HK$200 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: quiet, which was surprising because we were there for a weekday lunch.
Recommended dishes: the goose feet cooked with sea cucumber in clay pot (HK$238) were disappointing because of the skin, which had what my friend accurately described as a papery texture. The sea cucumbers and shiitake mushrooms that were also in the pot were much better, especially the thick, meaty mushrooms. Pan-fried free range chicken in thick soy sauce (HK$158) featured boneless chunks of moist meat with crisp skin.
Pros: servers were helpful and the food came out at a good pace.
Cons: we don't know why the JC Group changed this restaurant from Pearl Dining House, which we really liked. Several of the dishes were under-seasoned. The sautéed assorted mushrooms (HK$48) turned out to be deep-fried with a light batter that wasn't crisp. The flavour was dull and the same could be said of the marinated cucumber (HK$48). Another bland dish was the steamed glutinous rice balls stuffed with meat (HK$88). The rice was cooked well, and the meatballs had a good texture, but the two main ingredients weren't cohesive. Crispy pork in hawthorn sweet and sour sauce (HK$78) had a batter that was too thick and the flavours of the sauce were indistinct. The best part of the dish was the succulent chunks of pineapple.
What else? There's another branch of Pearl Delights in Sha Tin, tel: 2681 2200.